So for university I have to do some research into the trends I can spot throughout the London Collections Men 2016 shows, and I thought why not kill two birds with one stone and make a blog post out of it.
The 2016 Mens Fashion Month started off in London on the 8th of this month and continues over in Milan on the 16th. Now, I’m not going to lie, Men’s Fashion Weeks and male collections have not been something I find myself keeping up to date with and taking the time to watch, as I have honestly always found the collections repetitive and safe, but after having no option but to do the research for an assignment, I’ve been pleasantly surprised and am beginning to think that I have always looked at the collections in a narrow-minded view.
I’ve looked at three specific trends from the London shows, now boxy tailoring is always going to be a recurring theme throughout men’s fashion as it is a timeless look which is always going to work, so despite being, I’d say, one of the main trends of the week, I didn’t want to state the obvious, and also exploring what else men’s fashion had to offer was something I was keen to do!
Every year, in both S/S and A/W collections, florals find their way onto the runway in at least a good 80% of women’s collections, but it was nice to see that this time it was in fact popular in the men’s world too. Bloom patterned bombers and jackets concluded the looks of many designers, including Alexander Mcqueen, Moschino, Tiger of Sweden and James Long.
Moschino combined coloured floral, combined with black leather pants featuring multiple zips and a matching floral backpack creating an alternative image, finished with the models sprayed green hair.
Alexander Mcqueen took a different approach to bloom service, marrying a shin-length, monochrome floral trench coat with simple suit attire – black straight leg trousers and a basic white shirt, worn by a ‘corpse-looking’ model, creating a gothic and rather medieval theme to the collection.
Tiger of Sweden knows how to mismatch patterns in the best way possible. Pairing a wildlife themed leather biker jacket, with 80’s inspired suit pants, the collection has autumnal chic down to a T.
Now if complicating fashion and crossing boundaries is what you do, James Long’s collection defines risk-taking. Combining multiple patterns into one look and blocking colours, the collection is I’d say the more modern out of the previous, rather than making one pattern the centre-point, the floral is just one of the several patterns that catch your eye.
The military trend has yet to go off duty, with bomber jackets all over London runways. Military is a trend which I find is enduring in the fashion industry. Each year it is tweaked and changed, 2014 seen a strictly utilitarian edge to the trend, 2015 showed a more casual side, using khakis and greens in more natural, day-to-day lives and now Military garb was perhaps the strongest theme that emerged in London, in various incarnations, khaki as a key colour being the simplest.
Uniform of the battlefield, ceremonial dress and costume were obvious trends of the week, most notably at Alexander McQueen with scarlet hussar jackets and velvet- and satin-trimmed greatcoats. A vast majority of the collection was made up by tailoring, but in a more relaxed fit than other fashion names, Sarah Burton said she wanted to “take the stuffing out” of these clothes. Sequin-embellished jackets were lavish yet appeared lightweight and easy, styled with loose trousers – tuxedo stripe trailing – and trainers. The collection oozed a ghostly, gothic, and historical theme whilst maintaining current.
Burberry Creative Director Christopher Bailey showed his trademark traditional trenches and gentleman’s attire (as well as introducing a surprise newcomer; a zip-up tracksuit top) zipped up under the brand’s famous honey-coloured macintosh and layered beneath longline double-breasted military coats.
Bomber jackets were a reoccurring feature piece throughout the Christopher Raeburn show. Quilted versions in black and olive headlined an array of solid outerwear options in the A/W16 collection. Although Mongolia was the stated theme, a zippered sleeve pocket with pen holders added pilot airs to pea coats and parkas in a patchwork of earth-toned wools that recalled the Asian country’s stepped landscape. While familiar, Raeburn’s urban-explorer look — with each exit grounded in dark stovepipe jeans and variations on hiking boots — branched out further with prints.
You know those days were you wish it was socially acceptable to go outside in your pyjamas, well we’re getting one step closer. I don’t know why, but I’m not complaining – a pyjama party trend has somehow made it into numerous designers collections for fall.
Male models walked down the runway at the JW Anderson AW16 show in luxurious silk pyjamas, oddly decorated with images of snails and combined with bold coloured football boots, not the combination I had in mind personally but certainly something I would like to see make happen!
Topman Design also followed the nightwear as outerwear trend, dressing up tailored silk and velvet trousers with dressing gowns and beanie hats, perfect for the typical student who has 5 minutes in between rolling out of bed and having to attend a lecture – a look I personally think I could rock, menswear or not.
Sibling and Edward Crutchley’s collections also featured the restless slacker trend..
So Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week continues on the 16th, where Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Calvin Klein Collection and many more take to the runways to continue until it’s the women’s turn with Haute Couture Week starting at the end of this month.
If you get a chance to stream any of the men’s collections through the next couple of weeks I’d definitely recommend it!